12. To Nata Lodge, Nata and then into Zambia and Waterberry Lodge, Victoria Falls

Our next destination was Victoria Falls but it was too far to drive in one day so we stopped off at Nata lodge. Good to be in a proper bed again and to be cooked for but otherwise not memorable. Carolyn enjoyed a swim and our chalet's outdoor shower!

 The next day we knew would be challenging, not so much because of the drive because we were now back on sealed roads but because of the potential difficulties arising out of the ferry crossing into Zambia. The current waiting time for lorries to get through the border was three weeks and whilst there was no reason to expect that we would be delayed in such a way there are no guarantees of not being held up for a day or longer whether because of corruption or inefficiency or otherwise at the customs post.

 After a long drive (Ralph/Ian helping out Nic, thankfully) we arrived at the river crossing and eventually after hours of visiting various government officials (including the need for us all to buy council tax) in small stuffy stifling rooms and no little stress, emerged clutching our required documents. However, it all became worthwhile when we arrived at Waterberry Lodge, outside Livingstone and our most upmarket accommodation of the trip. Located on the banks of the river Zambesi it offered boat trips on the river and access to Victoria Falls, a short drive away .


The “sunset cruise“ was certainly the most relaxing moment of the trip, gliding down the Zambezi, clutching our gin and 
tonics and enjoying a perfect sunset. It was great that Peta and Brian were able to join us at this point too after Peta's ankle was judged strong enough to travel.

Many, many hippos...


An excellent dinner and drifting off to sleep in our little cabin on the waterfront with the sounds of the hippo calls all around us was magical.

 That harmony was shattered the next day when we were unable to cross the border into Zimbabwe to access the best side of the falls because the customs post had “run out of visas. Very frustrating; we walked around the Falls from the Zambian side but with the restricted view and the fact that the drought had substantially diminished the fall's volume it was a different experience to what we had anticipated. The others, including Peta and Brian, went off for a helicopter ride over the Falls and they had a real experience.

The gangs all here!

the sadly diminished falls



Chacma baboon
We finished our day with another sunset cruise which included some really interesting game sightings.
Brown-headed kingfisher
Vultures tucking in..

A hyena thinking of his supper



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